Tolbert Painting

Tolbert Painting: How to paint straight lines and avoid paint bleed

by Joel Tolbert

Every once in awhile I get a call from a homeowner who has attempted to do a paint job themselves, and the caller is apologetic and almost embarrassed by the damage they have done. Then they ask me to fix it.

By the time I get there it’s to late, but it’s never as bad as they make it sound. Most people do a good job of protecting their belongings, flooring, and other areas from unwanted splatter or drips. Most folks are good at rolling out a wall and often take the extra time to apply two coats. Overall, from what I can tell, the paint jobs aren’t half bad. So where do they go wrong? 

The “cut in” is the line that separates the painted area from the non-painted area. If we are just changing the color on an interior wall for example than that area would be the door casing, base board the ceiling and so on.

Hand brushing a straight line can be difficult and it takes years of practice to be fast and efficient, but that doesn’t mean that it’s impossible. Folks can give up right away on the idea of cutting their walls in with a brush, and reach first for the tape. Give it a shot! You might surprise yourself. I hand cut with a brush 90% of all my interiors so I know it can be done. I recommend spending a little extra on a nicer 2 ½ “angle sash brush.” It might take you some time to get the hang of, but you might find it effective – especially for the ceiling.

Let’s say the brush thing is just not working out: here are a couple of tape tricks you might want to try. The biggest problem with tape is what we call “bleed”. “Bleeding” occurs when unwanted paint seeps through your tape line and onto what you didn’t want painted. It is caused when the edge of the tape does not fully adhere to the area that you are protecting and then makes its way through the tiny divots and spaces that already exist in that area. The more textured an area is the more likely the tape is to bleed; for example, if you were taping out glass, “bleeding” would be less of a danger.

There are some newer tapes on the market that have adapted to this problem and are designed specifically to cut down on bleeding. Frog Tape and Scotch 3M Orange Core are a couple of examples. Frog Tape has a product in the adhesive that reacts to water, causing it to inflate so when your paint comes in contact with the tape line the product puffs up and fills the tiny void keeping your line intact.

My favorite method to keep a good tape line is called the Old Timer. This method involves a caulking gun and some low tack tape – preferably 3M Blue. First you will make your line on the surface you are protecting (lets say the base board), then make sure the edge that is being protected is tacked down good by going over it lightly with a putty knife. The caulking tube tip should be cut small, preferably at the ¼ “ line. Run a fine bead of caulking over your tape line between the wall and the base board. With a damp cloth remove the caulking from the tape line. Now apply the paint to the wall at that line lightly not to heavy. Give it about a minute to set and pull the tape before the caulking has a chance to dry. You should have a perfect line free of tape bleed. This is also a great trick for color transitions in the middle of walls or at a Bull Nose.